July 1st - I had to clear out with customs and check out of the marina, first thing this morning, which occasioned a bit of a late start - 9:30am.
Once we cleared the lee of the islands of St. Kitts and Nevis, we had a fairly bumpy ride to Montserrat, a 51-mile run overall. However, we arrived about 4:30pm and dropped the hook in Rendevous Bay, a very small bay on the extreme northwestern end of Montserrat. It was a bit rolly overnight, but very picturesque, as we were surrounded by sheer cliffs, a small sandy beach, a deserted house on the beach, plus one black goat .
At anchor in Rendevous Bay, Montserrat
Monserrat is an active volcano. Recently the caldera's lava dome has been rising, leading researchers to expect some sort of "event" to occur sometime soon.
The trade winds in this area generally are out of the east, which blows lava dust to the leeward (western) side of the island. For that reason, the government recommends that boats transiting the island travel on the windward (eastern) side, out in the open Atlantic.
View of the volcano and lava fields on the eastern side of Montserrat. The last eruption buried a major portion of the principal city, ruins of which can be seen sticking up here and there amid the lava field. Since that event, most of the populace has moved to the northern end of the island. There is an intervening mountain range which, they believe, will protect them from future lava flows from the volcano.
View of Montserrat's lava flow
July 2 - Our next stop was at the village of Deshailes (pronounced Day-hay) Bay, near the northwestern end of the island of Guadaloupe. We left Montserrat at 6:45am, and arrived at anchor by 1:15pm. The 40-mile passage was very bumpy, with 4' to 6' seas, and we were happy to arrive in this quaint village in the protected harbour to rest up. Guadaloupe is a large island with lots of anchorages, both large and small. It is actually considered French soil, and is quite prosperous and well-developed for tourism and cruising. We did not go ashore here, but we will definitely return when we can spend a few weeks exploring. It has a great reputation for food and wine, as you might imagine!
Ville Deshailes, Guadaloupe
Thursday, July 3 - We hoisted our hook at 6:15am for this 51-mile run down-island to Dominica.
The cruise down the lee side of Guadaloupe was both calm and very scenic. Lots of shoreside villages, with good anchorages. We saw many boats at rest in the lee of the island.
However, the passage between Guadaloupe and Dominica was another story. We dealt with strong adverse currents, 30-knot winds, and 6' seas.
We arrived in Portsmouth Harbour, Dominica at 1:45pm. This small village was one of our ports of call on the itinerary of the Windstar Cruise, that Susan and I took several years ago. That cruise was pivotal in our deciding to buy our own boat upon our retirement. We have been looking forward to returning to the islands we visited on that cruise.
As we approached the quiet harbour, the local boatman known as "Lawrence of Arabia" met us. We had read about him in our cruising guide, and were happy to meet him. He, along with others like him, provide all sorts of services to the cruising boats arriving in this lovely harbour. I asked him to take me to the customs and immigration office to clear in, and I was very happy that I did. I would have had a tough time even locating it otherwise!
Later in the day, Lawrence took us ashore to "The Purple Turtle" beachfront restaurant and cyber-cafe. There, we were able to access the internet for weather updates, check emails, and have dinner. We love the people of Dominica. They were so hospitable!
The two-story structure in the center of this photo is "The Purple Turtle"
The next morning, as we departed Portsmouth, Dominica -
View of the pier where Windstar tied up during our previous visit. The old Fort overlooks the pier and harbour, and is now part of a protected park and historical area.
Friday, July 4th - Today was a 53-mile run down to St. Pierre, Martinique. This was an easy run, with seas running less than 4' in relatively light winds.
St. Pierre is situated at the foot of a dormant volcano, which last erupted in 1902, wiping out the town and killing some 22,000 residents of St. Pierre.
View of the volcano, as we approach the northern end of Martinique.
View of the volcano, towering over the town of St. Pierre, Martinique
We anchored here at 2:3opm in 22 feet of water, just 50 yards off the beach and town dock. This was a quiet anchorage, with only a few cruising boats in the harbour, since it is off-season. We did not go ashore here, but will definitely return this winter.
The town of St. Pierre as it looks today
Saturday, July 5th - Leaving early, at 6:30am, we headed toward St. Lucia, one of our favorite islands of the Caribbean. This was an easy 47-mile leg, in calm seas and light air. Our cruising guide recommended the small harbour of Marigot Bay, so we opted to go in to see if there was room for us to anchor. Instead, the Marigot Marina offered a sweet deal for an overnight slip, and we accepted. Since we had been moving and anchoring out every night since we left St. Kitts, we felt we deserved a couple of nights at a dock, with access to good restaurants, as well as onboard free internet!
View of Marigot Harbour as we entered
Marigot Harbour is almost like a Norwegian Fijord in shape - narrow and deeply cut into the surrounding cliffs. It has an inner lagoon, where the marina is located, and it is considered one of the few truly safe Hurricane Holes in this part of the Caribbean. They have never lost a boat during a hurricane!
Here are located two lovely resorts, and a fleet of Moorings charter boats is operated from the marina. They must have 25 catamarans and mono-hulls available. Since it is off-season, many of them are in port now.
We were also delighted to find the first truly good bread in the islands, at a bakery not 50 yards from the boat. We were able to feast on fresh-baked French pastries, and bought several loaves of Sourdough Bread for our larder. Last night, we enjoyed a fine-dining experience at the Discovery Resort's restaurant overlooking the marina. We will be truly sorry to leave here tomorrow morning.
It simply doesn't get any better than this! Check out the sunset, as seen last night from our slip!
Tomorrow - On to St. Vincent and the Grenadines...
No comments:
Post a Comment