Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Big Sand Cay to Providenciales, Turks and Caicos

Monday, March 15
Since it is only a short 24 mile run to Six Hills Cays, Marco and I decided to do some boat chores during the morning hours. I changed the oil and oil filter and fuel filter on my 12KW generator, for example.


We left Big Sand about 10:45am, and dropped the hook about 3:30pm, in about 15 feet of clear water. Our purpose in keeping the day short was to position our boats for the 44 mile run across the Caicos Banks the next day. The Caicos Banks are extremely shallow, and are dotted with hundreds of coral heads. They must be navigated in full daylight, and VPR (Visual Piloting Rules) apply big time!


Tuesday, March 16
Leaving Six Hills Cays at 8:00am, Susan was positioned on the flybridge, and I ran the boat from our pilothouse, so I could view both chartplotters simultaneously.


The charts show a route across the banks, but there are no physical channel markers to go by. So we set the autopilot to take us to the waypoints (Latitude and Longitude) designated on the charts, and kept a sharp lookout for the dark patches of water that signify coral formations. Susan has become adept at spotting them in time for me to make detours around them. At times, the water was so shallow that we barely had a foot under the keel.


We took it slow and easy, and Marco tucked OLGA II in behind us. He figured that if KINGDOM ran aground or hit anything, he could avoid it and be nearby to help. It was sort of comforting to make this passage in company with another boat. KINGDOM draws 6' and OLGA II only draws 5', so it wouldn't work the other way round. Also, this was their first time on the Caicos Banks, and we had made this crossing two years before.


Along the way, we spotted quite a few dolphins, though they were darker and smaller than the bottle-nosed dolphins we have seen out at sea. Also, it appeared that some of the dark coral formations were moving as we approached them! We eventually identified these apparitions as large black Manta Rays.


We arrived at South Side Marina, on Providenciales, around 3:30pm. The tide was too low for us to take KINGDOM into the marina channel, but OLGA II was able to go in. Susan and I anchored in the bay overnight, and took KINGDOM into the marina next day at high tide.


South Side Marina is operated by Simon and Charlyn Anderson, a delightful couple who became good friends on our previous visit to Providenciales. Their hospitality and service is legendary among crusing boats in these waters. It was wonderful to catch up with them again! We purposely stayed over a few days to enjoy their company, and stock the boat for the next few weeks journey northward. Providenciales has excellent grocery stores, and I was able to purchase the oil I needed for my main engines.


We were able to clear in and out of Turks and Caicos right at the marina. They arrange for the customs and immigration officer to come to the marina for that purpose. This may not sound like a big deal, but it is actually a really HUGE IMPROVEMENT! Ask me sometime what we had to go through to clear in and out when we were in T&C two years ago. Make sure you have set aside plenty of time to hear my ranting and raving!


It was hard to leave such pleasant surroundings and wonderful people. We would have loved to stay much longer! On our previous visit, our friend Gayle Danner was with us, and we were able to SCUBA dive some of the excellent sites in these islands.

But we had to move on northward...

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Rio San Juan, DR, to Big Sand Cay, Turks and Caicos

OLGA II, anchored off Big Sand Cay, Turks and Caicos - Marco, Ann, and Pia are launching their kyak for an excursion
View of Big Sand Cay, a lovely deserted island with a fabulous beach
Marco, Ann and Pia returning from their exploration
Sunday, March 14 - From Rio San Juan to Big Sand Cay was a 16-hour, 113-mile crossing. So after a few hours sleep, Susan and I pulled our hook at midnight, in order to arrive at our small island destination in daylight. We estimated we would get there around 4:00pm, and we hit it exactly right.

The crossing was quite smooth, with hardly any sea running, probably less than 3' waves all the way across. Perfect for us!

Nearing Melchior Channel around 2:00pm, we did spot a lone whale, but it was too far away for us to see much detail.

Approaching Big Sand Cay, we were pleased to see OLGA II anchored near the shore of this pristine little island. Big Sand is not quite appropriately named. It is definitely a sand spit, with a few dunes in the center, but is not "Big" by any means. However, it is a bird and wildlife sanctuary, and has no human habitation. There is only the ruins of an old station of some sort to mar the pristine beauty of the island. Marco and Ann had stayed a day to roam the lovely beach and rest after their long crossing.

Samana to Rio San Juan, Dominican Republic

Marco and Ann's catamaran, OLGA II, passing astern KINGDOM
Marco and Ann, off the coast of Dominican Republic
KINGDOM slowly overtakes Marco and Ann's catamaran, OLGA II

6:30am, Saturday, March 13 - We hoisted our anchor in Samana at first light for our cruise "around the corner" of DR, bound for the small fishing village of Rio San Juan, on DR's north shore.

The day was splendid. With seas following at only 3' to 4', and the trade wind behind us, we made excellent speed. Marco and Ann had departed Samana an hour ahead of us, but we soon overtook them, and were able to photograph them on their boat underway. They were heading directly for Big Sand Cay, at the southeast corner of the Turks and Caicos island group. This would require an all-night sail for them, but Susan and I wanted to make our crossing so that we would arrive at Big Sand in daylight.

We arrived in Rio San Juan at 4:00pm and dropped the hook in 20 feet of very clear water. Several other cruising sailboats arrived shortly thereafter. After about an hour, the port authorities came out in a small boat to check our papers. Thank goodness we had cleared out of Samana properly. Incredibly, no money changed hands this time! In their broken English, they wished us Bon Voyage and Good Luck!
We enjoyed an early dinner, and went to bed at 8:00 pm, for a few hours sleep. We departed at midnight for the long 113-mile crossing to Turks and Caicos' Big Sand Cay.

Cap Cana to Samana, Dominican Republic

A small island in Samana Bay, with fabulous beach, and at least 100 beach chairs.
Marco and Ann's daughter Pia. Molly shared her chew toys with Pia, who was teething and needed something to knaw on...

Marco and Pia trying to interest Molly in her squeaky toy.
Pia is a sweetheart, with amazing blue eyes!
Ann is lovely, too! What a handsome family. We really enjoyed meeting and visiting with this Swiss cruising family.

I can't believe it has been two months since our last posting. We've been moving fast, and had limited access to Internet until we arrived in Florida. This series of posts is reconstructed from my ship' logs and the few pictures we've taken along the way.

We spent almost two weeks in Cap ICana, waiting for a good weather window to move north along the Mona passage to the huge Samana Bay, near the Northeast corner of Dominican Republic. While in Cap Cana, we met a lovely Swiss couple, Marco and Ann, whose 1-year old daughter Pia was a delightful playmate for Molly.

Marco and Ann have a custom-designed catamaran they have brought cross-Atlantic from Spain. They were sailing it up to Nassau, where they will meet crew to take the boat back to Europe. We cruised along with them from DR to Providenciales, Turks and Caicos, anchoring nearby to exchange visits aboard each others' boats. We enjoyed their company enormously. Molly will especially miss Pia.

March 11, 7:30am - The voyage from Cap Cana northward to Samana Bay was somewhat uncomfortable, with a following sea of 6' to 7' waves, with the wind on the starboard beam. It did calm down a bit once we entered Samana Bay itself. We dropped the hook in the harbor about 6:30pm, just as it was getting dark. We did spot a few whales in the Mona Passage - fins, flukes and spouts!

Once we anchored, the port of entry officials came out to our boats, to clear us in and collect their customary fees (and free beer). Next afternoon, Marco and I had to go into town to obtain our outbound clearance papers. The port captain was asleep in his office. I mean asleep on a cot in his underwear! We had to wait while he awoke and dressed enough to fill out our documents. Naturally, he spoke no English, so we had to pay an interpreter a few bucks to help us understand his questions, and help him understand our answers.
The harbor itself was calm, but access to the town was difficult, as the town dock was so crowded with fishing boats that we could barely tie up our dinghy. This area of Dominican Republic is struggling to develop its tourist industry. There are lovely beaches nearby, mountains, state parks and resorts. But electric power is unreliable, and roads are a mess. In ten years, it might be a real destination, but for now it seems so much more primitive than Cap Cana. A few smaller cruise ships do call there now, however. We saw three while we were there.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Cap Cana Marina and Resort - Continued

The resort covers about 3,000 acres. The marina, though huge, is only about 10% of the property. So one day we rented an electric golf cart to see more of it. We drove about 4 miles southward and arrived at the Zona Hotel (Hotel Zone) on prime beachfront property. There are three major hotel chains in various stages of completion.
The one that has been completed is owned by a Spanish company, and this hotel is called "Secrets", which seems appropriate to us, since we think it is the best kept secret in the Caribbean.
The hotel zone has at least 3 miles of pristine beaches, all behind protective reefs, creating a wonderful sunning, swimming and snorkeling environment. Beach toys, such as kyaks, volleyball nets, soccer nets and balls are all available. Beachside Tiki Huts, manned by smiling attendants, provide cool drinks, hot dogs, hamburgers and local specialties, delivered to your lounge chair on the beach. Even horseback riding is available at the more remote beach areas. (so ya don't step in the horse poop while playing on the beach)

At the end of the day, we returned to one of the lovely restaurants at the marina, located no more than 20 yards from our dock!
These are our friends, Luis (bartender), Fausto (maitre'd), and Victor.
Walt and Fausto, sharing a moment. These people are so friendly, lively and helpful.
Rear view of "Secrets" hotel complex.
Setting up for a reception at the hotel.
"Secrets" Hotel, overlooking pool area.
Note the swim-up bar!
Lobby of "Secrets"
Approaching lobby of "Secrets" Hotel
Entry sign for "Secrets"
View of "Secrets" from the road. Looks like Spain!

We spent a lovely afternoon here, sipping drinks, conversing with a couple of guests, and one of the main real estate agents. We acquired a working knowledge of how homes, condos, and building sites are sold and managed (at least Susan did!) For retirees with investment money available, these properties are definitely worth a look. It feels like a combination of the best features of Monterrey, Pebble Beach, Miami, and the Mediterranean!

We also saw a lovely beachside wedding taking place, along with the subsequent private reception. No, we didn't crash the wedding!

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

PARADISE FOUND !!

Finally, on Wednesday, February 24th, we took advantage of the perfect weather day to make the 80 mile crossing of the Mona Passage from Puerto Rico to the Dominican Republic. We left Boqueron at 5:00am, arriving at Punta Cana Marina at 3:30 pm. Smooth seas, cooperative currents, and almost no wind makes life perfect for us cruisers (at least the ones without sails!)

We had planned to put in at the Punta Cana marina, but when we called them on VHF, nobody could speak English! So we found ourselves at the brand-new Cap Cana Marina, just next door, since they had English speaking folks answering our VHF calls for assistance. What a wonderful, serendipitous event!

This place is FABULOUS! And it is still only 20% completed. For the complete picture, go to their website:
http://www.golfcapcana.com/?page=10022

It is a combination of Mediterranean architecture, high-tech marina, miles of unspoiled, uncrowded beaches, fine restaurants, wonderful staff, warm weather and crystal clear Caribbean waters. And did mention golf? Three separate courses so far...

One of six marina basins.
In March, they are hosting one of the Senior PGA tournaments here.

For you yachtsmen, this is the entry channel into Cap Cana Marina. A straight, well-marked, dredged channel through the offshore reefs.
One of the walkways/cart paths on the property.
Susan and Molly on the bridge over one of the many lovely beachside pools.
View of the beach beyond one of the pools in the Marina area. Hawaii's got nothin' on this place!
Spa and pool beachside. And yes, that is a swim-up bar beyond the little bridge.
Beachside condo's.
Susan and Molly on the beach.
There are miles of white, powdery sand beaches. This is one of the small sections near the marina.
Looking back toward restaurants and shopping area.
Another of several yacht basins, lined by condo's, shops, and restaurants. Looks like the Med!
Walt and Molly enjoy a walk. Notice the crowds? NOT!

Esperanza to Salinas to Boqueron

Monday, February 15, we made the 50 mile run from Esperanza, Viequez over to Salinas Bay, on the south coast of Puerto Rico. We woke early, and left the bay at 5:30am, arriving in Salinas harbor at1:15pm.

Salinas, on the southern coast of Puerto Rico is a long, narrow harbor, surrounded by mangroves. It is fairly shallow, but the barrier islets and the mangroves offer complete protection from sea surge and wind from any direction. It is as still as a mill pond in there. The main harbor is thick with mooring balls, which we seldom use because of KINGDOM's size and weight. So we anchored in the outer harbor in about 11 feet of water.

Tuesday morning, Feb 16, we were on our way at 8:00am for the 60 mile leg to Boqueron Bay, on the Southwestern coast of Puerto Rico. We had a following sea, with 5' waves powering us along. We were making 8+ knots most of the way. But it is a bit disconcerting to have the stern lift up five or six feet, which points the bow down, and then up again as the wave passes under the boat from stern to bow. Sort of riding a roller coaster backwards, if you can get the picture.
We arrived in Boqueron at 4:00pm, tired and thirsty. We had a beer aboard and went to bed.

We had made friends with some of the local folks on our way down-island. So on Wednesday evening we arranged to meet them (Stan and Rita) for drinks at the "Sunrise Sunset Bar" near the dinghy dock. We put our dinghy in the water, all ready to go, and the battery was dead. Fortunately, we have a portable battery charger, which put a nice fresh charge in the battery in 45 minutes. (We had inadvertently left a switch on when we loaded the dinghy in St. Thomas.)

A great time was had by all, along with many cervezas.

We stayed in Boqueron until Wednesday, February 16th, awaiting perfect weather conditions to cross the Mona Passage to the Dominican Republic. It rained for several days, and we mostly hibernated aboard the boat, reading and relaxing.

Walt also researched an electrical problem with our small generator, aided by two new friends, Tony and David. They are from Michigan, and have family in PR, whom they visit for a couple of months each year.

Speaking of pictures, we didn't take any in Salinas or Boqueron. We photo-documented these places pretty well in previous blogs on our way South. And they haven't changed much.
Still beautiful...

St. Thomas to Esperanza, Vieques

We departed St. Thomas on Valentines Day, February 14th. It was only a 40 mile run to Esperanza, on the Spanish Virgin Island of Vieques (Part of the USVI, governed by Puerto Rico). We pulled up our hook at 9:10am, and were in Esperanza Bay by 3:15pm.
The bay is on the southern coast of Vieques. It has a wide entry, and is protected from the East, West, and North. Guess which way the waves were coming from...You guessed it - the South!
We tucked in as best we could behind this spit of land, but spent a somewhat rolly night. Not too bad, since the waves were quite small.

The local guys know how to do it. They drop a bow anchor, then run a line to shore, keeping their bow into the waves.
We were there on Sunday afternoon. The locals were definitely enjoying the beach.
This is just another example of the thousands of wonderful beaches in the islands. Even though it was Sunday, there were no crowds.
The beach here in this bay is about a mile long.

Marina Mascot

At Sapphire Bay Marina, in St. Thomas, this iguana was sort of the Marina Mascot. We think he liked hanging out with us, since the big iguanas on the beach were mean to him...

Wha 'chu lookin' at, honky?
This guy was about 3 feet long. Probably just a teenager. We saw much larger ones on the beach, but didn't have the camera handy.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Decison Time - Do We or Don't We?

Upon arrival in the Virgin Islands, we had hoped to have at least a couple of charters booked. Unfortunately we have been unsuccessful in our endeavors, in spite of Susie's most ambitious marketing venue which was putting ad brochures into empty wine bottles and pitching them overboard at regular intervals. Our gorgeous website created by Rod Houk gets plenty of lookie-loos, but no serious inquires.
We also learned that the government of the British Virgin Islands has enacted a host of new regulations applying to charter yachts, to be enforced starting February 15th. We looked into the new rules, and have found that it would take an additional substantial investment on our part in order to bring our boat into compliance.
Given the fact that we have no revenue stream to offset the expense, and none in the pipeline, we have decided to abandon our plans to enter the charter business.
What to do?
We are nearing the three-year mark on our voyages aboard KINGDOM. Our mutually agreed commitment was for three years before we would decide on a new venture, and here we are. We have enjoyed a first class experience, and trying to curb our appetite for the good life is not very attractive to us; go big or go home is our philosophy...so it's time to come home.
In addition, we miss our families. We feel we are neglecting our kids, grandkids, Susan's father, and our many friends. We had hoped to have more of them visit us aboard, but those visits have been few and far between.
After much discussion and consideration, we have decided to return to the U.S. and offer KINGDOM for sale. We will be moving the boat to Melbourne, Florida, where our favorite boat broker, Jim Guin, has arranged a slip for us in a local marina, where it can conveniently be shown to prospective buyers.
Walt will stay with the boat until it sells. We believe it requires constant attention to maintenance, cleaning and polishing to show well.
Once we are established in Melbourne, Susan will return to Scottsdale and work to re-start her real estate business. She will probably rent a small apartment initially.
After the boat is sold, we will use the proceeds to buy a small home in the Scottsdale area, and we will both be back to stay.
Please know that we have absolutely no regrets. Not about our decision to go to sea, nor about our decision to go ashore. Personally, I was never overly enthusiastic about the idea of running a charter business. Having paying guests in your home is not the same as having invited guests in your home. I think t would feel differently if the boat had been purchased with that purpose in mind, and if it were not our only home.
We have had a wonderful time cruising the Caribbean! We have lived the life many people only dream of living. We could go on doing this for years to come, but it is just not practical without generating more income. We love our boat; we love the cruising community; we love the people of the Caribbean; we even love the challenges we have faced, since we have grown from each of them.

Our fuel tanks are full. The larder is stocked. All we need now is a good weather window, and we will be headed home!

Look for us to come steaming over the horizon one day soon...

St. Thomas at last!

Since arriving in the US Virgin Islands January 14th, we have been quite busy! First order of business was to find our friends and catch up on our doings since we saw them last year.
Dick Shirley and his wife, Jill Lambert are here aboard their 44' Island Packet sailboat, "Changin' Tags". (Dick owns auto dealerships in Burlington N.C.) Jill and Dick brought Molly to us last year from Virgina, and have become dear friends.Edit Pages

We met Jay and Bernadette De Shay last year, while they were managing the charter catamaran "Tachyon". We finally found them while anchored in Christmas Cove on their new boat "Vivo", a beatiful 60' catamaran. They are now salaried crew for the owner, and are not having to do charters anymore. A wonderful couple, and we have become great friends.

We've also caught up with Ana and Wolfgang Boehringer. They are a young and energetic European couple whom we met last year at American Yacht Harbor. They purchased "Second Wind", a 56' Angel Yacht-Fish motor yacht while we were there. Since then they have purchased a home with rental apartments attached, fixed up their boat, and have been working hard as Dive Masters for the Ritz Carlton Hotel. In fact, they were the first people we saw as we came into St. Thomas. When we rounded the reef at Little St. James Island, there they were, hosting a group diving the reef! We had no sooner dropped our anchor at Christmas Cove, than their dive boat approached and hailed us! Who could it be? Sure enough, it was Ana on the bow, and Wolfgang at the helm!

We found Dick and Jill at American Yacht Harbor. Since then, we've enjoyed meals together , sailed out into the BVI's together, and swapped more sea stories than Popeye!

We are currently tied up at Sapphire Bay marina, where Ana and Wolfgang live aboard their boat. It is a small, protected marina on the Northeastern tip of St. Thomas, just around the corner from Red Hook.

This is Walt on the dock in front of our boat. The dock is separated from the bay by a small strip of beach and a rock jetty.
View of Sapphire Bay marina and some of the condos
Another view of Sapphire Bay Marina, looking toward the hotels
You can almost spit in the ocean from our bow pulpit. From this angle, it looks like we've run aground, but we are actually in a slip at the marina.
Jill Lambert, Dick's better half
Walt and Dick, hoisting a couple in Virgin Gorda
From left - Dick, Jill, Susan and Walt, ashore in Virgin Gorda
Cruise Ships docked in Charlotte Amalie harbor, St. Thomas, where we have been anchored for a few days at a time
Yacht Haven Grande Marina, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas
Bernadette and Susan on KINGDOM's aft Deck
Dick and Molly (his granddog)
Jill Lambert and Jason De Shay, feeling no pain
Dick, Molly, Bernadette, and Susan (she's the grumpy one...)