The following day we shot the treacherous “Current Cut” to Eluthera Sound. In the Sound, we faced 25 knot winds, spray over the bow, and bumpy ride all day in moderate seas. That afternoon, we entered Rock Sound Harbour, a nice big 3 mile wide bay, and found 34 other boats, (all sailboats) awaiting good weather to move north. We were outnumbered! But we were accepted into the fleet at the impromptu happy hour at the abandoned Tiki Hut bar on the second evening. We always pick up good tips from meeting and mingling with other cruisers. We were unable to depart Rock Sound until a week later, due to high winds and rolling seas. Fair Weather Sailors are we!!!
On April 5th, we departed for Half Moon Bay, Little San Salvador Island, a private island owned by Holland America Cruise Lines, where we found only one other yacht anchored, and a Carnival Cruise ship with all their passengers ashore for a day of beachie-beachie…We had a marvelous swim off the boat after their departure, and watched Holland America’s herd of horses gallop down the beach from the corral to their barn for dinner. Beautiful sight! The bay is not large, or well-protected, so unfortunately, we had a lousy nights’ sleep with rollers knocking us to and fro. So we were not disappointed to leave this spot at first light. (Photo)Hawks Nest Creek Marina on Cat Island was our overnight stop on April 6th. Complete with hawk parents in the nest feeding babies, and screeching loudly, it was almost perfect, except for the shallow water in the entrance channel upon arrival. I believe we must now say we have “run aground”, but no harm done, we were able to back off the sand bar and make another approach, and docked with no further ado.
Carnival Cruise line ship at Half-Moon Bay - It's leaving, thank goodness!!!
Beach at Half Moon Bay -
Sunset at Half Moon Bay, Little San Salvador Island, Bahamas.
Hawks Nest Creek Marina on Cat Island was our overnight stop on April 6th. Complete with hawk parents in the nest feeding babies, and screeching loudly, it was almost perfect, except for the shallow water in the entrance channel upon arrival. I believe we must now say we have “run aground”, but no harm done, we were able to back off the sand bar and make another approach, and docked with no further ado.
On April 7th, after a perfect day of calm seas, sunny skies, and light breezes, we found an ideal anchorage in Clarence Town Harbour, Long Island, Bahamas; crystal clear water, surrounded by little white sand coves, palm trees, church steeples and twinkling lights from the few homes ashore, and nobody else around. We enjoyed views of the waves crashing over the submerged coral reefs directly ahead of us, views out to sea, and perfectly flat water. The stars were magnificent from the deck that evening, the Milky Way in all its glory overhead; I think Clarence Town is my favorite anchorage so far.
After our first cruising experience with flat, glassy seas, no wind, and no incidents, we dropped our anchor in Atwood Harbour, Crooked Island, Bahamas on April 8th. The area was largely uninhabited, and gorgeous.
OK, now is a time to mention my ever improving navigational skills. Unfortunately, I sometimes learn by my mistakes. We maneuvered into Abrahams Bay, Mayaguana, Bahamas in good light, with good charts, and yet I insisted to my Captain that we approach a particularly scenic area, in too little water! Coral heads, sea fans, anemones, and grasses all visible to the naked eye should have been my first clue! I wasn’t demoted, but I have since stopped being so outspoken about where to drop the hook! Captain likes a little water under the keel, go figure!
Leaving the Bahamas behind, we ventured ever farther south to Providenciales, Caicos, British West Indies. Here we are honing our skills in "eyeball navigation". Our charts note “Visual Piloting Rules” required, as the coral heads here are numerous and deadly, and the light must be right to spot them. We dropped the hook in Sapadillo Bay, Caicos Island late on Friday April 10th. We flew our quarantine flag until my Captain was able to secure our clearance through Customs the following day. Saturday morning, Walt was told that the Customs Officer would be available at Government Dock (aka South Dock) for clearance, and he had made arrangement with another Captain to go ashore together. As is not uncommon, the Customs Officer was not there, so the two of them shared a taxi to the Airport for clearance, only to be told they couldn’t clear cruisers there, and that they needed to return to Government Dock for Clearance!!!
By this time, a bond had been forged, and we became friends with the most wonderful British couple, Tom and Leslie Pawley. They have shared their 8 years of cruising experience with us over evening cocktails in the ensuing days, plus baked us some delicious bread, and in turn enjoyed iced drinks from Kingdom, which was a treat for them. Tom hand-built their Ferro-cement hulled, gaff rigged, Norwegian designed beauty, over the course of 10 years, in Exeter, England. They intended to cruise for about a year, but they are still at it 8 years later. They're now heading to the States for the first time. Believe it or not, they sailed from England down the coast of Africa, and then directly across the Atlantic to Barbados. And, they are prepared to make the crossing again!
Sapadillo Bay was lovely, with huge homes surrounding the bay. However, the protection is iffy at best, so we decided with Tom and Leslie to head to Cooper Jack Yacht Basin, a beautifully cut marina wanna-be, without docks or anything else, but a wonderfully secure and protected anchorage. Best of all; it’s free! Around the bend from there is South Side Marina, with internet available on the Dock Master’s boat, which he allows cruisers to access, and access to an IGA grocery store to rival the ones stateside. We stocked up on almost everything…I wish I’d had a list because I’m still without horseradish for Bloodies (OMG) and Ice Cream for the Captain.
This morning (April 16th) we moved reluctantly to Caicos Marina & Ship Yard to fuel up our tanks. My Captain wanted to top off, and is doing the math on fuel and hours so he is more comfortable with our planning and usage. At $5.20 a gallon for diesel I wish he’d do the math in Venezuela where it is about $ .30 per gallon, but he’s the Boss of this ship! So we are here, with free internet and a great connection until Friday morning when they kick us out for some other incoming “big boat”. Perhaps we’ll go back to Cooper Jack and hang with Tom, Leslie and their cat, “Roti”.
Tomorrow night we celebrate our 4th Anniversary, and will go to the Grace Bay side of the island for dinner and sightseeing. It’s amazing to us that 4 years have passed already, and the way our life is unfolding. Daily we are overwhelmed with gratitude and awe for the experiences and blessings that enrich our life. There is new meaning to “over the horizon”, for it literally holds so many surprises for us. We miss you all and wish you were here!
With Love,
Susan & Walt
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