Leaving St. Lucia on December 17, we made it to St. Pierre, Martinique by 4:30pm, and dropped the hook in the small harbor there. Early next morning (7:20am), we departed for Portsmouth, Dominica, arriving at 3:20pm. We cleared customs and Immigration before they closed for the day. We spent the next day, Dec.19th, changing the oil, oil filters, and fuel filters in both generators. We moved on to the Iles des Saintes on Monday, December 21st. This was a short cruise of less than three hours, and we arrived before noon.
The Saintes, as they are casually referred to, are a lovely island group lying midway between Dominica and Guadaloupe. They are actually part of France, as is the island of Guadaloupe, and it is very apparent by the language, architecture, and cuisine. We were delighted with the village and its people.
We learned, for example, that no slaves were ever imported to the Saintes, since the island group is small, rocky, and unsuited to any sort of agriculture. Therefore, no slaves were required, and the island group remains largely caucasian to this day.
We tried, unsuccessfully, to find immigration or customs officials to clear us in. We were told that nobody was available to do so, and that officials probably would not appear until well after the new year (Holidays are taken seriously, ya know...).
We ended up staying about two weeks, right through Christmas and New Years because of a mechanical problem.
Basically, neither of our main engines would start! We tried everything we knew to try. Eventually, a diesel mechanic was summoned from Guadaloupe. He diagnosed the problem in about five minutes, and our engines started right up! Somehow our emergency shut-down cables had been activated, which cut off the air supply to the engines, thus they would try to start, but running out of air, could not sustain combustion. The mechanic showed me how to re-set the shutoff mechanism, so again I learned an expensive lesson. Since he had committed the day to us, travelling by ferry from Guadaloupe in the morning, and catching the ferry back to his base in the late afternoon, we owed him a day's hourly rate. I almost didn't mind paying him the $500 fee, since he was a delightful fellow, clearly knowlegable, and most important, HE DIDN'T LAUGH IN MY FACE!
While we were stuck, and waiting for the mechanic to arrive after the holidays, we enjoyed our time in the Saintes. We stocked up on excellent and inexpensive Friench wine, bought and froze a number of the wonderful baguettes that are baked fresh daily, and enjoyed one extraordinary meal at a restaurant ashore. Restaurant "Ti Kaz La" offers an amazing menu! I was very adventurous, and ordered a dish I never in my life would imagine ordering: Pigs Feet Stuffed with Sweetbreads. I don't think I can describe the experience adequately, but let me assure you, there was nothing left but a few toenails when I finished eating!
We went ashore every few days to access the internet at a cafe, and mostly tried to catch up on email and make a few skype calls to family, but we were unable to update the blog due to time constraints. The cafe had some unusual operating hours, closing mid-afternoon, and if they were open at all in the evening, it was too crowded for us to hook up the computer.
Walt, lunching ashore at the internet cafe.
Susan, lunching ashore at the internet cafe.
Waterfront Bar in the Saintes
A view of the waterfront and the village
While we were at anchor, this 5-masted cruise ship came in for a visit
Believe it or not, this is a private residence in the shape of a ship's bow. On the top floor is a doctor's office.
La Fringale restaurant, along the main street of the village.
Main Street
This was the Wind Star ship that Susan and I began our Caribbean adventure aboard, several years ago. What a coincidence that she came in while we were in the Saintes! That was the cruise that caused us to fall in love with the Islands and thier people.
View of one of the small harbors in the Saintes.
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