LIFE at Great Guana Cay

View of 7-Mile Beach, taken from the upper deck of Nippers, the legendary Guana Cay Tiki bar/restaurant. This place is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 363 days a year. The owner told us they close on Christmas Day and one other day, but he couldn't remember which one...
Probably suffering from "CRS" (Can't Remember S**t) induced by prolonged exposure to their drink specialty "The Nipper". More than two of those at a sitting brings on early onset CRS.


Susan at sea level on 7-mile beach. The most beautiful sand-castle material I've seen in a long, long, time!


Captain King wades ashore from the sea, shouting: "I hereby lay claim to this beach in the name of the Baby Boomer Generation, its heirs and assigns, free and clear forever!"


Preparing for our second SCUBA diving lesson. Am I the only one here?


World Headquarters for Guana Dive International, Ltd. Pretty snazzy office, eh?


We've been taking full advantage of all that the Bahamas has to offer. Sunny, warm days interwoven with rainy, cool days. On the sunny ones, we roam the island on our scooters, terrifying the populace with our tendency to drive on the right-hand side of the road (they follow British driving rules here). We frequent the beaches, restaurants, Tiki bars, and small merchants of the island. On rainy days, we hibernate, read, do laundry, watch television, take long naps, and visit with new friends aboard nearby boats.

We've also been working toward the PADI Open Water SCUBA Diver certification. This calls for study of the diving instruction manualsl, taking tests to ensure we've absorbed the necessary knowledge, and video instruction, along with 5 lagoon (shallow-water) dive classes, and 5 open-water reef dives to demonstrate our competence. We did our first two reef dives yesterday, and we are clearly hooked! I will be forever grateful to our friend, Terry Carron, for giving me most of the diving gear I will need: wet suit, regulator, vest BCD (Bouyancy Control Device), gear bag, and more. To be honest, without his generous gift, I probably would have been content with my snorkel gear, having never had much interest in going deeper underwater. However, I reasoned that by learning to use it, I could easily save money by cleaning our boat's bottom myself! Now we have to save some money to purchase Susan's gear next time we return to the US. Bahamian duty fees just about double the price of anything you buy here that is made elsewhere.

LIFE on Great Guana Cay has been a joy! Wish you were here!

Pinch Me - I Must Be Dreaming

It seems like a dream vacation, without the dread of returning to the "real world" in 10 days...Every Day is Just Like Yesterday, and the one before that. Every morning, 80 degrees, balmy breezes, azure bay that looks 2 feet deep but it's 20' or more, watching for sea turtles popping their heads above the surface, I sip my iced coffee on the aft deck...Then I wonder if I need to do a stressful chore like a load of laundry, or is it time to change the sheets yet? ...Just another day in Paradise.

Walt and I are finally getting the hang of retirement! This is GREAT! We spent Saturday lounging around the yacht club pool, snacking on delicious appetizers and sipping local beer, reading our books and gazing out at the sail boats in the Sea of Abaco. (The lending library is alive and well with boaters; we read and pass along books faster than the City Library). Sunday we strolled up to Nippers, the local hangout, for the weekly Pig Roast and Party. Nippers is a landmark here on this tiny island. I didn't have it in me to return for their SuperBowl Party that evening, but Walt and our friend Bill were determined to do their All American Guy thing, and whooped it up with the locals for that most exciting game.

I beat Walt at Scrabble the other night; he said that won't happen again...

Walt tuning up his old 12-string Gibson...

Monday was special! We moved Kingdom over to the fuel dock and off-loaded our scooters! To hell with chores when there is a whole island to explore! We covered every paved and sandy road on the island (in under an hour). Then, needing refreshment and nourishment, what better than Cheeseburgers in Paradise! Nippers sits on a knoll above 7 mile beach, a talcum powder white beach which faces the turquoise blue Atlantic Ocean we all dream about. Snorkelers enjoy the reefs just off shore, but we haven't gotten around to that yet, as our plans to return later with our gear was interrupted by nap time!

Bahamians are the friendliest people, polite, gracious and fun. The history here is somewhat convoluted: The islands were first settled by Loyalists during the American Revolution. Freed slaves came with them, and more after the Civil War. Then developers came from around the globe, and either made it or more likely didn't. There are ex-pats from the US and Canada, and Caribbean neighbors. There is no crime, no police presence, and sometimes no electricity on the whole island (like Sunday when some boat tore through the submerged power line and we went dark until the generators started humming on every boat and building in town).

Susan on the beach...

Orchid Bay landing, pool beyond...

Tonight we are BBQing chicken breasts on our cockpit grill. I'll make baked potatoes and salad, and perhaps we'll dine on the flybridge and watch the sun set.

Then, since it is Super-Tuesday, we may watch the early election returns on TV. This is the first time we have not been able to cancel out each others' vote, and might have actually voted for the same person if we'd filed our absentee ballots. But even politics can't disturb the peace and tranquility here on Kingdom.

So I guess it's true: Merrily, Merrily, Merrily, Merrily, Life is But a Dream!

Great Sale Cay to Green Turtle Cay via Spanish Cay

The anchorage at Great Sale Cay was peaceful and quiet at sunset, but we knew that the winds were going to increase and blow from the southeast overnight as a weather front moved through. Five boats eventually anchored here for the night. We anchored well off the beach, and away from the shallow inner cove just in case the high winds might cause our anchors to drag. We each prepared a second, heavy weather anchor in advance, so it would be easy to deploy if necessary.

This is a picture of KISMET, our twin boat, with the sunset lighting her up like gold.


We (KISMET and KINGDOM) had planned to get underway around 7:30am next morning, soon after sunrise. However, we awoke to very windy, squally weather. We tried to wait it out, but by 9:30am, it was still raining. Hoisting the anchor was a perfect opportunity to get a bath while fully dressed. Bill Meissner called ahead to Spanish Cay Marina, making reservations for us to put in there as our next stop. Spanish Cay has good protection from northern winds, and a decent breakwater helps break up wave action from the south and southwest.
Since Kismet's autopilot was acting weird, I offered to lead the way to Spanish Cay. I had already set the waypoints for our course. So Bill and Shelly fell into line behind us. Another boat, FREEDOM (owners Arthur and Pauline), had generator problems, and asked if they could join us. Two other boats anchored overnight at Great Sale Cay fell in line behind FREEDOM. They were PEACE and IFFIN, both out of Palm Coast, FL.
The squalls blew themselves away, but the wind clocked around to the south, and our anemometers registered wind speeds of steady 20 to 30 knots, with gusts of up to 35 kph through the afternoon.
It's a bit hard to see, but in the picture below in our wake are KISMET, followed by FREEDOM, and then IFFIN, with PEACE on the horizon. Squinting my eyes, I could imagine a line of WWII destroyers in convoy...


My First Mate likes to nap on the Pilothouse Berth while we're underway. I like having her nearby while I'm at the helm. She keeps me company, even when she's napping. I also appreciate that Susan demonstrates this level of confidence in my navigational skills. It is always good to be rested for the next leg of our trip.


KISMET and KINGDOM arrived at Spanish Cay Marina around 3:30pm. FREEDOM arrived right behind us. Unfortunately, PEACE developed a leak in their hydraulic steering system, and was dead in the water about 2 miles from the marina. They were forced to drop their anchor and heave to while they diagnosed the problem. Their friends Barry and Barbara, aboard IFFIN, stayed with them until the marina staff agreed to send their work boat out to tow them in. We anxiously monitored their progress by VHF radio from the marina's bar until they arrived safely, around 5:30pm. Then we proceeded to get fairly wasted!
Since the weather was messy for the next 24 hours, we all decided to stay at Spanish Cay Marina another night, before proceeding on to Green Turtle Cay. This gave Jim (Captain of PEACE) time to hitch a ride on the marina's work boat over to Great Abaco Cay, where he was able to get a taxi down to Marsh Harbor, obtain a replacement hydraulic hose, and get back by evening. (I heard it was a $200 taxi fare to get a $100 part! Bummer!)

The next day, we all departed from Spanish Cay. FREEDOM elected to go on down to Orchid Bay, while PEACE and IFFIN decided to anchor in Black Sound, Green Turtle Cay.

Bill Meissner had pre-arranged dockage at Bluff House Marina in Green Turtle Cay for KISMET and KINGDOM. The approach to the harbor there is quite shallow and narrow, so we followed KISMET over the bar at high tide, since they had been there before. Once in the harbor, the boats are protected from winds from all directions, and especially the South and East. A few hours after our arrival, FREEDOM entered the harbor, and docked at the Green Turtle Club Marina, across White Sound from us. We learned later that they had tried to make the passage around Whale Cay, but turned back when they encountered 5' to 8' waves in the channel.

Bluff House is aptly named, since the main dining area is situated high on a bluff overlooking the harbor to the east, Plymouth Town to the south and the Sea of Abaco to the west. Sunsets are spectacular!

This is a view of the dock at Bluff House Marina. In the background is the Jolly Roger Cafe and Bar, which was not yet open for the season. Up the hill to the right is the Bluff House restaurant, which offers excellent meals.

Again due to weather, we stayed put at Bluff House Marina on Green Turtle Cay for two nights, watching for the seas to subside before making the passage through "The Whale". This passage requires deep draft yachts like ours to leave the relative protection of the Sea of Abaco, traverse a narrow cut out into the Atlantic a mile or so, and then head south around Whale Cay, and back into the Sea of Abaco through a wider cut between Whale and Great Guana Cays. When the wind has been blowing from the North or Northeast at more that 15kph for very long, this passage becomes very treacherous for boat traffic. They call it a "rage", and smart boaters wait until the seas are settled before making this passage.

While we waited, Bill, Shelly, Susan and I rented a golf cart, so we could do a bit of sight-seeing. We drove over to Plymouth Town, a tiny village on the island that dates back to the 1880's, located on Black Sound.
Plymouth Town harbor...

Catch up Time!

First, a bit of official business:
For the entire month of February, we will be able to receive GUESTS, as well as mail and packages in care of:
Orchid Bay Yacht Club and Marina
M/V KINGDOM, Slip #43
Great Guana Cay, Abacos, Bahama
The marina phone is (242) 365-5175 FAX (242) 365-5166

Our cell phones are alive and active here, too, but roaming charges to us can run as high as $1.99 per minute.
The good news, is that we have a good WIFI internet connection thru the marina (free), and so PLEASE email us right away if you think you may be able to visit us here during February. The nearest airport is Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Cay, Abacos, Bahamas. It is a short ferry ride from there to Orchid Bay, here on Great Guana Cay.

Susan reported on our trip across the Gulf Stream from Palm Beach, Fl. to West End, Grand Bahama. This is a photo of KINGDOM tied up at Old Bahama Bay Yacht Club and Resort. Old Bahama Bay is a gorgeous resort, full service hotel, marina, private beach, fabulous restaurants and entertainment, as well as the beach/poolside Tiki Bar! The boat in the background is KISMET; owned by Bill and Shelley Meissner, whom we met upon docking.

KISMET is also a 58' Hatteras Long Range Cruiser (of which only 44 were built) and is almost the twin of our boat. Bill and Shelly have done a beautiful job of updating, refitting, and remodeling their boat, and it is immaculate! We've become friends, and have been cruising in company since West End. Since they have been cruising the Bahamas for at least 7 years in their boat, we see them as mentors as well as friends. Their local knowledge of the islands and local conditions is extensive.

During our two days in West End, we were boarded by Cinderella (pictured below with Susan). Cinderella is a local legend, and has become the unofficial mascot of the marina there. Several years ago, she crossed from Florida to West End with her family. Apparently, it was a very rough crossing in a sailboat. She promptly abandoned ship at the marina! Her family tried for a week to find her, but finally had to depart without her. She eventually emerged from hiding, and the marina employees have looked after her ever since. She is a very well-behaved cat, with impeccable manners. She picks out a transient boat in the harbor, and then for a day or two she "adopts" the family on board as sort of a foster cat. We very much enjoyed having been chosen by Cinderella, and you may be sure that Susan gave her only the finest tuna twice daily in appreciation. Cinderella stayed overnight on our aft deck, since I refused to allow Susan to bring her in the Master stateroom to sleep with us. She made no attempt to stay aboard when we departed. She seems to like boats and boating families, as long as they don't go to sea.

Pictured here are our friends Bill and Shelley Meissner, owners of KISMET.

Pictured here is the bow of KINGDOM, following KISMET, as we made our way from West End to the anchorage off Great Sale Cay for the night. The weather was mild, the sea moderate.


Here is a picture of our pilothouse chart plotters in action. On the left is the MapTech unit, and the Garmin is on the right. It may be hard to make out, but on each screen is a representation of the position of our boat, followed by a dotted line representing the path we have taken. Projecting from the bow of the boat icon, there is a pointer which represents the direction the boat is currently heading. When we lay out the day's sail, we create little icons called "waypoints" at specific latitude and longitude locations. Then we can steer the boat toward the next waypoint on our itinerary manually or by autopilot. It is sort of like playing a very slow video game!


Stay tuned - Next installment: Great Sale Cay to Green Turtle Cay via Spanish Cay

There Be Dragons

Ahoy Mateys,
In spite of what Sherry Sheppard said on the "The View" a couple weeks ago, the world is not flat! We did not fall off the edge, and we are here! Columbus was right!
We left on time from Palm Beach at 4:00 a.m. Wednesday, January 23 with light winds from the east, slack tide and an almost full moon, gorgeous, peaceful and solitary. Spectacular skyline views leaving the harbor, but perhaps a bit of trepidation in our minds because we were about to cross the GULF STREAM! No sight of land in any direction, in the dark, and virgins at the game...Plus, the sea depths would reach far more than our depth sounder at 2000 feet and that's where the charts of old say "There Be Dragons". Oh well, it's true; ignorance is bliss! Out of the darkness the lights of several container ships approached us, and since steel beats plastic every time, we allowed them to continue on course without interruption. Since Flying Fish were our only companions, we have nothing exciting to report on dragons, whales, or even dolphin sightings. However, it was a perfect day; winds subsided after dawn about the time we reached the western edge of the Gulf Stream, and our passage was very "comfortable," considering we're such "ol' salts" now ... Kingdom performed perfectly!
We arrived in West End, Grand Bahama without incident about 1:00 p.m. right on schedule, and tied up at the Old Bahama Bay Marina & Resort. It's beautiful here, small groups of Caribbean style Hotel buildings, lush tropical landscaping, white sandy beaches, pool, spas, 5 star amenities, 3 restaurants, and a snug mooring. As Captain, Walt is responsible to clear customs, therefore he's the only one allowed to leave the boat...he spent a good hour filling out forms, even though we had made copies of everything they could possibly want including our ammo stores. It must be on their form! I spent a good hour rigging lines, setting fenders, cleaning up, and making lunch.
When we entered this beautiful marina, approaching the dock, Captain Bill Meissner gave a shout " Great looking boat you have there!" I glanced sideways, and there sat our boat's twin! Another 58' Hatteras LRC.. "Kismet". We quickly became friends, and they have graciously shared their 7 year experiences cruising the Bahamas with us. We plan to depart Old Bahama Bay with them tomorrow morning, heading to Great Sale Cay (pronounced "Key") and onward to the best Tiki Bar in the Universe - "Nippers" in Great Guana, Abacos, Bahamas. This journey may take a week or more, waiting for perfect conditions and lingering in the spots deserving of more investigation. Internet access may not be available.

Important Note: Yesterday Walt and I began living "The Dream"... we spent several hours on a white sandy beach, gazing on tranguil azure blue 75 degree seas, sipping rum drinks in the shade of a palm tree, reading novels, listening to the sound of the Caribbean band playing at the Resort Tiki bar... ALONE...(Off Season 'till April, and they have only have 9 hotel guests staying here). Paradise!!!
We have been enormously blessed, during every step of our adventure. Yesterday, once again Spirit brought us a special blessing: "Cinderella" . A couple of hours after we tied up, this beautiful female cat waltzed aboard, black and white patches all over, cute as a button and very well behaved, she adopted us. I fed her, much to Walt's dismay, and talked to her like she was a member of the family. We have now learned she is somewhat a prima-donna of the harbor, does not like life at sea, and is much loved and cared for here at Old Bahama Bay, and although we love her, we will make sure she's ashore before we depart in the morning. Plus, I don't do litter boxes!

Today, we lazed around, checking e-mail, reading, shopping in the hotel gift shop, making Coc-au-vin in the crock pot (uhmmm), going to the Managers' (free) Cocktail Party, and making plans for tomorrow with Bill and Shelley Meissner for the morning departure.
I would post a pic or two if we had the ability, but the Internet connection is troublesome. We have a part on order and when it arrives we should be able to show you all what a beautiful place this is. We'll be in No Man's Land for a few days, and completely out of touch, but know that you are never far from our thoughts, and always in our hearts!

We love you most,
Walt and Susan

Bahama Bound!

Tomorrow morning at 4:00am, we will cast off the lines here at West Palm Beach, and make the crossing of the Gulf Stream over to West End, Grand Bahama Island. We topped up our fuel tanks this afternoon, so we're ready to go!

We've been here in Riviera Beach almost two weeks, stocking up the boat's stores and waiting for a good weather window for the crossing. For 10 out of the 14 days we've been here, the wind has been out of the North, Northeast, or Northwest, blowing as much as 30knots per hour! Under those conditions, the Gulf Stream, which flows Northward along the Atlantic seaboard, builds larger and larger waves, typically 10 to 15 footers! Finally, today the wind shifted to the East and Southeast, and dropped to normal velocity. The weather forecast for tomorrow is good, with light winds and wave heights in the Gulf Stream dropping down to 4 feet or less by morning, and 2 feet or less by Thursday morning. Good conditions for the crossing!

The distance from here to West End is only about 54 miles, so it should take us no more than 10 hours. We should be there by early afternoon tomorrow, around 2:00pm. That gives us plenty of time to find the marina, clear customs, and have a good restful evening.

We're not sure how well our current internet connection will work in the Bahamas, if at all. So this may be our last blog entry for a week or so. Our current ISP is based on the Sprint network, and we just found out that it may not work outside the US. Yesterday, we ordered a new international wireless internet service from AT&T, but we won't have their device for a couple of weeks. Once that new service is active, we will have unlimited internet service pretty much worldwide, as long as we are within range of a cellular tower or network. That will enable us to browse the internet, maintain this blog, and send and receive email just as we do today.

Susan did order the international roaming program for our cell phones, so they should work just fine, but will be a bit more expensive. Basically, those calls will incur usage charges of up to $1.99 per minute. Our conversations will obviously be brief!

We'll do our best to keep everyone apprised of our current location, destinations, and travel experiences, through all means available to us.

Blessings to all from M/V KINGDOM

Love,
Walt & Susan

Stocking our larder for cruising the Islands

Today we made two trips to Costco. Thanks to Claire and Don Jones for loaning us one of their cars!!!
The first trip was for dry goods, canned goods, paper goods, and liquor. Coffee, tea, canned meats, dry pasta, potatos, rice, candy, butter, cheese, etc. etc. There was hardly any room for us in the car on the way back to the boat.




The second trip was for meat. We bought whole loins of pork and beef, a boneless leg of lamb shank, chicken breasts, chicken thighs, and ground beef. Then we spent a couple of hours cutting, dividing, and bagging meal-sized portions of steaks, chops, ground beef, chicken and roasts. We barely got it all into the refrigerator. However, our friend Claire found us a small freezer this afternoon. Tomorrow, we will install it in the companionway shelf belowdecks. So we will now have plenty of freezer space for a full six months supply of meat for us and our guests.

Our plan is to purchase fruits and vegetables locally as we find them, but beef, pork, lamb and poultry are both scarce and quite expensive in the islands. Our cruising guides all recommend that we take an ample supply of those items.

Tomorrow, we have to figure out where all this stuff goes!