Cruise to Florida from Turks and Caicos, and Sale of KINGDOM

Our last day of ownership of KINGDOM

What a wonderful home she was!

Goodbye, old girl. We hope your new owners love you as much as we did!

Bottom painted in Melbourne

Our last post to this blog was in March of 2010. It is now a year later, and a lot of water has passed under our keel, both literally and figuratively.

We did not dawdle on our way back to Florida, since there were potential buyers wating in Melbourne for us to get there. We took the shortest routes we could plot through the Bahamas, and put in some long days to make up for bad weather days. Fortunately, the weather was mostly good on this leg of our journey.

We made landfall in Miami about April 10, and spent a couple of days there, visiting with our Cuban friend, Dr. Nardelio Nodal. Then offshore again up to West Palm Beach. We ran inside (Intracoastal Waterway) on up to Melbourne from there, arriving April 15.

Once in Melobourne, we worked like dogs, to get the boat in shape for showing. Paint, varnish, fiberglass polishing, oil changes, generator maintenance, etc. etc. We replaced what needed replacing, scraped the bottom, worked on air conditioners, cleaned all sea strainers. If we could do it, we did it!

We had a number of showings to interested buyers, but only one lowball offer initially. Susan flew back to Arizona with Molly, to begin our house search and re-start her real estate business. I stayed aboard the boat to continue with maintenance and keep the boat ready to show. I finally made a two-week trip back to Phoenix in July, and of course, that is when a serious offer came in on the boat.

After sea trial, and spending two weeks in the boatyard to effect additonal repairs that surfaced in the marine survey, we closed the sale on August 10th, three years after buying KINGDOM.

I finished packing our personal gear, arranged for shipping it and our scooters back to Phoenix, and flew back to join Susan.

Except for our Christmas trip to California for Yvonne and Clay's wedding, most of the intervening time from September 2010 until now, early March, 2011, has been spent searching for, purchasing, and furnishing our new home in Phoenix. We finally feel settled again, and are looking forward to the next chapter. It is good to be able to spend time with our families here, though we occasionally do miss our seagoing life.

This will be the last posting for "The voyages of KINGDOM" blog.

Big Sand Cay to Providenciales, Turks and Caicos

Monday, March 15
Since it is only a short 24 mile run to Six Hills Cays, Marco and I decided to do some boat chores during the morning hours. I changed the oil and oil filter and fuel filter on my 12KW generator, for example.


We left Big Sand about 10:45am, and dropped the hook about 3:30pm, in about 15 feet of clear water. Our purpose in keeping the day short was to position our boats for the 44 mile run across the Caicos Banks the next day. The Caicos Banks are extremely shallow, and are dotted with hundreds of coral heads. They must be navigated in full daylight, and VPR (Visual Piloting Rules) apply big time!


Tuesday, March 16
Leaving Six Hills Cays at 8:00am, Susan was positioned on the flybridge, and I ran the boat from our pilothouse, so I could view both chartplotters simultaneously.


The charts show a route across the banks, but there are no physical channel markers to go by. So we set the autopilot to take us to the waypoints (Latitude and Longitude) designated on the charts, and kept a sharp lookout for the dark patches of water that signify coral formations. Susan has become adept at spotting them in time for me to make detours around them. At times, the water was so shallow that we barely had a foot under the keel.


We took it slow and easy, and Marco tucked OLGA II in behind us. He figured that if KINGDOM ran aground or hit anything, he could avoid it and be nearby to help. It was sort of comforting to make this passage in company with another boat. KINGDOM draws 6' and OLGA II only draws 5', so it wouldn't work the other way round. Also, this was their first time on the Caicos Banks, and we had made this crossing two years before.


Along the way, we spotted quite a few dolphins, though they were darker and smaller than the bottle-nosed dolphins we have seen out at sea. Also, it appeared that some of the dark coral formations were moving as we approached them! We eventually identified these apparitions as large black Manta Rays.


We arrived at South Side Marina, on Providenciales, around 3:30pm. The tide was too low for us to take KINGDOM into the marina channel, but OLGA II was able to go in. Susan and I anchored in the bay overnight, and took KINGDOM into the marina next day at high tide.


South Side Marina is operated by Simon and Charlyn Anderson, a delightful couple who became good friends on our previous visit to Providenciales. Their hospitality and service is legendary among crusing boats in these waters. It was wonderful to catch up with them again! We purposely stayed over a few days to enjoy their company, and stock the boat for the next few weeks journey northward. Providenciales has excellent grocery stores, and I was able to purchase the oil I needed for my main engines.


We were able to clear in and out of Turks and Caicos right at the marina. They arrange for the customs and immigration officer to come to the marina for that purpose. This may not sound like a big deal, but it is actually a really HUGE IMPROVEMENT! Ask me sometime what we had to go through to clear in and out when we were in T&C two years ago. Make sure you have set aside plenty of time to hear my ranting and raving!


It was hard to leave such pleasant surroundings and wonderful people. We would have loved to stay much longer! On our previous visit, our friend Gayle Danner was with us, and we were able to SCUBA dive some of the excellent sites in these islands.

But we had to move on northward...

Rio San Juan, DR, to Big Sand Cay, Turks and Caicos

OLGA II, anchored off Big Sand Cay, Turks and Caicos - Marco, Ann, and Pia are launching their kyak for an excursion
View of Big Sand Cay, a lovely deserted island with a fabulous beach

Marco, Ann and Pia returning from their exploration

Sunday, March 14 - From Rio San Juan to Big Sand Cay was a 16-hour, 113-mile crossing. So after a few hours sleep, Susan and I pulled our hook at midnight, in order to arrive at our small island destination in daylight. We estimated we would get there around 4:00pm, and we hit it exactly right.

The crossing was quite smooth, with hardly any sea running, probably less than 3' waves all the way across. Perfect for us!

Nearing Melchior Channel around 2:00pm, we did spot a lone whale, but it was too far away for us to see much detail.

Approaching Big Sand Cay, we were pleased to see OLGA II anchored near the shore of this pristine little island. Big Sand is not quite appropriately named. It is definitely a sand spit, with a few dunes in the center, but is not "Big" by any means. However, it is a bird and wildlife sanctuary, and has no human habitation. There is only the ruins of an old station of some sort to mar the pristine beauty of the island. Marco and Ann had stayed a day to roam the lovely beach and rest after their long crossing.

Samana to Rio San Juan, Dominican Republic

Marco and Ann's catamaran, OLGA II, passing astern KINGDOM
Marco and Ann, off the coast of Dominican Republic

KINGDOM slowly overtakes Marco and Ann's catamaran, OLGA II

6:30am, Saturday, March 13 - We hoisted our anchor in Samana at first light for our cruise "around the corner" of DR, bound for the small fishing village of Rio San Juan, on DR's north shore.

The day was splendid. With seas following at only 3' to 4', and the trade wind behind us, we made excellent speed. Marco and Ann had departed Samana an hour ahead of us, but we soon overtook them, and were able to photograph them on their boat underway. They were heading directly for Big Sand Cay, at the southeast corner of the Turks and Caicos island group. This would require an all-night sail for them, but Susan and I wanted to make our crossing so that we would arrive at Big Sand in daylight.

We arrived in Rio San Juan at 4:00pm and dropped the hook in 20 feet of very clear water. Several other cruising sailboats arrived shortly thereafter. After about an hour, the port authorities came out in a small boat to check our papers. Thank goodness we had cleared out of Samana properly. Incredibly, no money changed hands this time! In their broken English, they wished us Bon Voyage and Good Luck!

We enjoyed an early dinner, and went to bed at 8:00 pm, for a few hours sleep. We departed at midnight for the long 113-mile crossing to Turks and Caicos' Big Sand Cay.

Cap Cana to Samana, Dominican Republic

A small island in Samana Bay, with fabulous beach, and at least 100 beach chairs.
Marco and Ann's daughter Pia. Molly shared her chew toys with Pia, who was teething and needed something to knaw on...

Marco and Pia trying to interest Molly in her squeaky toy.

Pia is a sweetheart, with amazing blue eyes!

Ann is lovely, too! What a handsome family. We really enjoyed meeting and visiting with this Swiss cruising family.

I can't believe it has been two months since our last posting. We've been moving fast, and had limited access to Internet until we arrived in Florida. This series of posts is reconstructed from my ship' logs and the few pictures we've taken along the way.

We spent almost two weeks in Cap ICana, waiting for a good weather window to move north along the Mona passage to the huge Samana Bay, near the Northeast corner of Dominican Republic. While in Cap Cana, we met a lovely Swiss couple, Marco and Ann, whose 1-year old daughter Pia was a delightful playmate for Molly.

Marco and Ann have a custom-designed catamaran they have brought cross-Atlantic from Spain. They were sailing it up to Nassau, where they will meet crew to take the boat back to Europe. We cruised along with them from DR to Providenciales, Turks and Caicos, anchoring nearby to exchange visits aboard each others' boats. We enjoyed their company enormously. Molly will especially miss Pia.

March 11, 7:30am - The voyage from Cap Cana northward to Samana Bay was somewhat uncomfortable, with a following sea of 6' to 7' waves, with the wind on the starboard beam. It did calm down a bit once we entered Samana Bay itself. We dropped the hook in the harbor about 6:30pm, just as it was getting dark. We did spot a few whales in the Mona Passage - fins, flukes and spouts!

Once we anchored, the port of entry officials came out to our boats, to clear us in and collect their customary fees (and free beer). Next afternoon, Marco and I had to go into town to obtain our outbound clearance papers. The port captain was asleep in his office. I mean asleep on a cot in his underwear! We had to wait while he awoke and dressed enough to fill out our documents. Naturally, he spoke no English, so we had to pay an interpreter a few bucks to help us understand his questions, and help him understand our answers.

The harbor itself was calm, but access to the town was difficult, as the town dock was so crowded with fishing boats that we could barely tie up our dinghy. This area of Dominican Republic is struggling to develop its tourist industry. There are lovely beaches nearby, mountains, state parks and resorts. But electric power is unreliable, and roads are a mess. In ten years, it might be a real destination, but for now it seems so much more primitive than Cap Cana. A few smaller cruise ships do call there now, however. We saw three while we were there.

Cap Cana Marina and Resort - Continued

The resort covers about 3,000 acres. The marina, though huge, is only about 10% of the property. So one day we rented an electric golf cart to see more of it. We drove about 4 miles southward and arrived at the Zona Hotel (Hotel Zone) on prime beachfront property. There are three major hotel chains in various stages of completion.
The one that has been completed is owned by a Spanish company, and this hotel is called "Secrets", which seems appropriate to us, since we think it is the best kept secret in the Caribbean.
The hotel zone has at least 3 miles of pristine beaches, all behind protective reefs, creating a wonderful sunning, swimming and snorkeling environment. Beach toys, such as kyaks, volleyball nets, soccer nets and balls are all available. Beachside Tiki Huts, manned by smiling attendants, provide cool drinks, hot dogs, hamburgers and local specialties, delivered to your lounge chair on the beach. Even horseback riding is available at the more remote beach areas. (so ya don't step in the horse poop while playing on the beach)

At the end of the day, we returned to one of the lovely restaurants at the marina, located no more than 20 yards from our dock!
These are our friends, Luis (bartender), Fausto (maitre'd), and Victor.
Walt and Fausto, sharing a moment. These people are so friendly, lively and helpful.
Rear view of "Secrets" hotel complex.
Setting up for a reception at the hotel.
"Secrets" Hotel, overlooking pool area.
Note the swim-up bar!
Lobby of "Secrets"
Approaching lobby of "Secrets" Hotel
Entry sign for "Secrets"
View of "Secrets" from the road. Looks like Spain!

We spent a lovely afternoon here, sipping drinks, conversing with a couple of guests, and one of the main real estate agents. We acquired a working knowledge of how homes, condos, and building sites are sold and managed (at least Susan did!) For retirees with investment money available, these properties are definitely worth a look. It feels like a combination of the best features of Monterrey, Pebble Beach, Miami, and the Mediterranean!

We also saw a lovely beachside wedding taking place, along with the subsequent private reception. No, we didn't crash the wedding!

PARADISE FOUND !!

Finally, on Wednesday, February 24th, we took advantage of the perfect weather day to make the 80 mile crossing of the Mona Passage from Puerto Rico to the Dominican Republic. We left Boqueron at 5:00am, arriving at Punta Cana Marina at 3:30 pm. Smooth seas, cooperative currents, and almost no wind makes life perfect for us cruisers (at least the ones without sails!)

We had planned to put in at the Punta Cana marina, but when we called them on VHF, nobody could speak English! So we found ourselves at the brand-new Cap Cana Marina, just next door, since they had English speaking folks answering our VHF calls for assistance. What a wonderful, serendipitous event!

This place is FABULOUS! And it is still only 20% completed. For the complete picture, go to their website:
http://www.golfcapcana.com/?page=10022

It is a combination of Mediterranean architecture, high-tech marina, miles of unspoiled, uncrowded beaches, fine restaurants, wonderful staff, warm weather and crystal clear Caribbean waters. And did mention golf? Three separate courses so far...

One of six marina basins.
In March, they are hosting one of the Senior PGA tournaments here.

For you yachtsmen, this is the entry channel into Cap Cana Marina. A straight, well-marked, dredged channel through the offshore reefs.
One of the walkways/cart paths on the property.
Susan and Molly on the bridge over one of the many lovely beachside pools.
View of the beach beyond one of the pools in the Marina area. Hawaii's got nothin' on this place!
Spa and pool beachside. And yes, that is a swim-up bar beyond the little bridge.
Beachside condo's.
Susan and Molly on the beach.
There are miles of white, powdery sand beaches. This is one of the small sections near the marina.
Looking back toward restaurants and shopping area.
Another of several yacht basins, lined by condo's, shops, and restaurants. Looks like the Med!
Walt and Molly enjoy a walk. Notice the crowds? NOT!